Biscuits & Brioche

Travel, Smelt & Schwag

There has been a lot of talk about travel lately during the past few months. I went to Louisiana in October/November. My friend Robert came down as well. Angel went to Chicago for a gallery show. Chris went to England and Greece. Another friend was touring Europe. Orlando is about to do a stage at El Bullì in Roses, Spain. A few of my friends seem to be on walkabouts. And a ton of great people came down from all over to attend Blackpot Festival in Lafayette.

But you don't always have to jump on a plane to travel to faraway places. One of the most delicious ways is through cookbooks. I love creating themed dinner parties, though I've been slacking on that end the past few years. Yet perusing cookbooks (national, international, or local) still gets my mouth watering for interesting flavor combos that might not be first to pop into my mind.

Kirsten and I decided to make a few things this past week that we aren't necessarily used to eating, while Chris joined in as our eager guinea pig/special guest. One of those dishes was from "Venezia - Food & Dreams" by Tessa Kiros and published by Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC - a cookbook filled with fun flavors and dreamy pics by photographer Manos Chatzikonstantis. Turn to page 066 and you will see a delicious photo of Acciughe di Luisa (Luisa's anchovies) crispy fried, and sprinkled with chopped parsley and red onions. With no fresh anchovies to be found at Uwajimaya, we opted for smelt. While grand that it's so versatile, we were kinda hoping for that anchovy-esque flavor. Next time. But Kirsten did a great job with this recipe, which we would love to share with you. The only thing we did differently, aside from the smelt, was add a bit of flour to the polenta to help it stick better.

Acciughe di Luisa - Luisa's Anchovies
Serves 4 to 6

1 small red onion, finely sliced                    About 4 tblsp. polenta
2 tblsp. red wine vinegar                              Olive oil, for frying
About 12-15 (7 ounces) fresh anchovies    1.5 tbslp. chopped parsley

Dressing:
Juice of half a lemon
3 tblsp. olive oil

"The size of anchovies varies greatly & this is also lovely if you can get small sardines (the preparation is the same). These are pressed in polenta, fried, & then dressed with an onion, olive oil & lemon dressing. You can easily make a larger quantity if you like.. they keep well in the refrigerator for a day or so & even stay crisp on account of the polenta."

Put the onion in a bowl. Cover with cold water & the vinegar, let stand for an hour or so, then rinse, drain & pat dry with paper towels.

To fillet the anchovies, cut off the heads, then make a slit down the side of each fish & remove the guts & bones. Open out each anchovy flat, making sure it is still hinged together with the tail on. Rinse & pat dr very well with paper towels.

Pat the anchovy fillets in the polenta while your oil is heating in a nonstick skillet. Fry the anchovies in a    single layer (or in two batches, depending on the size of your pan), until golden & crisp on both sides. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels.

In a compact bowl, make a layer of anchovies with some onion & parsley. Make another layer of anchovies, onion, & parsley on top.

Mix the lemon juice & olive oil to make a dressing & drizzle over the top so that it falls between the fish. Season with salt & pepper. Serve immediately, or cover & let stand to absorb the flavors. This will keep in the refrigerator for a day or so (after which you could add a bit more dressing if you like).

Another quick recipe we tried out was the Spice-Crusted Cheese Truffles from "The Spice Kitchen: Everyday Cooking with Organic Spices" by Sara Engram and Katie Luber with Kimberly Toqe - a comfort-food book using spices from around the world in everything from Macaroni and Cheese (p.98) to Fennel Seed Soda Bread Rolls (p. 154). I played with the recipe a bit using other spices or cheeses I had on hand, but the premise was the same, and they were fun to make.

Spice-Crusted Cheese Truffles
Makes 18 (1-inch) truffles

"Cheese goes well with herbs and spices. here are several variations of a basic cheese truffle, bite-size treats your guests will love."

1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese                    1/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
4 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature       1/4 tsp. black pepper
2 tsp. finely minced white or yellow onion      5 tsp. ground mild chile pepper

Cream together the cheddar cheese, cream cheese, onion, Worcestershire, and peper in a medium mixing bowl until light and fluffy. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Roll the cheese into 1-inch-round balls. Roll each truffle in the chile pepper. Serve immediately or refrigerate until ready to use.

Variations: Substitute the following cheeses (for the cheddar) and spice (for the chile pepper) to create tasty Spice-Crusted Cheese Truffle variations:

1/2 cup shredded Havarti cheese and 5 teaspoons dill weed
1/4 cup crumbled feta cheese and 5 teaspoons oregano
1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese and 5 teaspoons dried orange zest
1/4 cup crumbled chèvre cheese and 5 teaspoons basil

Other dishes included salmon and swordfish bites, and sautéed squid. For these, I didn't use an exact recipe, but combined a few ideas take from the Internet, books, and my dusty brain. I also made a beet salad, which went to another party the following day. For that, I boiled the beets, then peeled and julienned them, and mixed them with chopped onions. In a springform ramekin, I layered chopped parsley, crumbled bleu cheese, the beet-onion mixture that had been marinated with a little balsamic vinaigrette, and chopped pecans. So after a couple of hours in the fridge, you place a plate on top of the springform ramekin, flip it over, and release the flap to unleash a delightfully rosy beet salad mold.

For the salmon, I cut 1-inch pieces of salmon into a bowl, discarding the skin. I then marinated it in a bit of honey vinegar, soy sauce and mustard. After a few hours of marinating, I dipped the pieces in flour and sautéed them in olive oil. The swordfish was similarly prepared, though marinated in garlic, soy sauce, Italian herbs and paprika. The sautéed squid were peeled, cleaned and chopped into small rings, also separating the tentacles from the ink sacs/eyes. I marinated them in mulling spices, salt & pepper. I then sautéed some onions and garlic in olive oil, added the squid and some retsina reducing the liquid down just enough to give the dish a nice dipping sauce.

 

 

On the restaurant front, made another outing to Tavern Law for swanky cocktails with Tabitha before switching over to cheap beer & nachos at Linda's. Best of both, indeed. Then after the light show in downtown Seattle this Friday, Chris and I headed over to Toulouse Petit on Queen Anne for good food, though not authentically Louisiana-style. I have yet to find a restaurant that makes real Louisiana food outside of the state, aside from Catfish Corner's fried catfish. Yum! Haven't been there in ages though.

This year's Thanksgiving started off with the traditional Macy's parade and ended with an unexpected and amazing dinner/slumber party at Sanaa's complete with juicy turkey, amazingly flavorful stuffing, homemade gravy, mashed potatoes, green beans, and carrots. Oh, and Leah's spectacular pumpkin pie. Next year, I might go on a hunt for everyone's turkey leftovers so I can attempt to replicate my Nana's traditional turkey gumbo. I mean, when is it NOT gumbo weather in Seattle?

On another note, a couple of weeks ago, I attended a AMA's PIF (Pay it Forward) event at Local Vine in Belltown with Kirsten. I am not a fan of selling myself. Though, in these down 'n out times when we're all looking for either a solid job or extra work to pay the bills, networking is a necessary means.  That evening, probably sensing my discomfort, they used me as a brief guinea pig in their video, though I'm always terrible on film. Thanks, Sandy, for putting me on the spot. Always a good reminder. Networking today! Karaoke tomorrow! Be sure to check out her book, "I'm at a Networking Event. Now what???".  AND Kirsten and I both won door prizes. Makes schmoozing a bit easier when ya get schwag.

Bon courage to everyone out there on the job hunt, going through their life transitions and soul-searching, and trying out-of-the-ordinary flavors and recipes. "It's a new dawn. It's a new day. It's a new life. For me. And I'm feelin' good." Bon appétit!

Feeling Good - Nina Simone

French Dogs, Geoduck, & Boudin! - Oh My!

 A couple of weekends ago, I spent some time with dear friends I hadn't seen in about ten years now living in Olympia with their respective families. The last time I was in Washington's state capitol (years ago), I was protesting the mistreatment of Mexican farm workers on vineyards. This time would prove to be a bit different.

First of all, I actually got to see the town. It's absolutely adorable. Small shops. Friendly people. An excellent farmers' market that reminded me more of a smaller scale Granville Island market in Vancouver. Delicious French pastries. And boiled peanuts. The latter because my friends are fellow southerners, and Chris just happened to be boiling some up.

Kaile came to fetch me from Seattle, and on our leisurely drive south, we caught up on a lot of the happenings during the past ten years. Our first stop in her now hometown would be a Halloween children/parents party complete with boiled peanuts, pumpkin carving, and chats with fellow adults while costumed little ones ran around laughing, pretending, and getting their faces painted. I felt a bit in a fog, not only because I sensed I was coming down with something, but also because it was such a different world from the one I'm used to. I started to wonder why adults don't get flowers painted on their faces more often and run around yards jumping in mud puddles. Maybe because we're the ones to have to clean it up? Still, could be fun.

Back to Kaile & Frank's house, they put their little ones to bed, I watched Ramen Girl, and then nestled myself under the cozy covers to get rested for the next day. Sunday morning, we woke up, got showered, and drove to a bright, open artisanal bakery with the most delightful French pastries, The Bread Peddler. Then it was on to the farmers' market for a coffee fix and bacon shopping. Cool air, a bluegrass band, yet more kids running around, and stalls with pumpkins, apples and oysters beckoning to be purchased. Unfortunately, I was caught up in the wonder of small town deliciousness and left my bag of French pastries in the car with the dog. When we returned, I could have sworn he was wearing a beret and smoking a cigarette. I felt like a ditz, but Kaile and Frank turned the car around and headed back to replace my pastries. And when I got back to Seattle, instead of les délices transporting me to Olympia with each bite, I flew right back to days spent with beautiful friends in France wondering how in the world they get food to taste so good without gaining an ounce. I took another bite. And then another. Croissant. Pain au Chocolat. Gateau Basque. Pumpkin Pie. Apple Tarte. Apple Fritter. Butter, butter and more butter. Happiness. Even if the top button on my jeans seems a little nervous just writing it down.

The morning ended with taking our pastries over to Chris and Amanda's for breakfast, then it was back to the metropolis of Seattle. Thanks, Kaile, Frank, Chris, Amanda, and kidlets for a delicious jaunt back in time.

   

The following Monday, Aimee, Ashlyn and I joined Sanaa at her place for a Mediterranean feast: Mussels Bienville, raw Geoduck with ginger and wasabi soy sauce, and seafood bisteeya (squid, shrimp, fish, and geoduck). Hanging with the ladies is always delicious because it's inevitable that there will be cocktails, wine, good food, loud danceable/sing-alongable music (usually from the 80s), and soulful conversations. That's just how it works. Not only was all of this present, but I also got to break down my first geoduck and squid. Cooooool.

 

 

According to Wikipedia, the ultra-phallic geoduck is the largest burrowing clam in the world as well as one of the longest-living organisms in the Animal Kingdom, and hails from Washington and British Columbia. Yay for us 'cause it's pretty tasty too. 

I love hangin' with the ladies whether in Seattle, Lafayette, LA, NYC or Paris. I have to say that I know some pretty amazing women, and am truly blessed. Thanks, gals, for being so beautiful.

Almost two weeks ago, I hopped on a plane and headed south to Lafayette, Louisiana. Incredible food, one of the coolest music festivals EVER, Blackpot Festival, beautiful, loving friends, and my sweetheart of a grandmother were in dire need of some vis'tin. After unloading and changing at Kristi & Mike's house, the first stop was Pamplona Tapas Bar & Restaurant. Some changes have been made, but it was super grand to dig into some chargrilled oysters, duck fat fries, bacon-wrapped dates with valdeon bleu cheese, duck confit flatbread, and other fine dishes. And, yes, I did have a little help from my friends. Unfortunately, Orlando, Brendan, and Luke were out that evening. :-( But Lafayette is never short of surprises. Nearing the end of our meal, Portland's MarchFourth Marching Band came parading down the street just in front on their way to play at the Blue Moon. We couldn't pass that up, thus we finished up at Pamplona and headed off to the Blue Moon Saloon, a hostel and one of the coolest venues you'll ever see. The bands play outside on the back porch, the crowd dances up a storm right in front, and for cooling off, everyone grabs an exceptionally potent drink or 20 at the bar downstairs in the backyard.

      

 

 

Taco Sisters was also on my list of places to go as I've been hearing about it ever since I left Lafayette back in February. While it doesn't exactly measure up to say Agua Verde in Seattle, they are pretty darn tasty. And I like how they combine flavors like their own smoked yellowfin tuna with 'normal' ingredients you might find in a tuna sandwich like iceberg lettuce and diced apples. And the sisters, Molly and Katy Richard, will welcome you with open arms, not because they only want your business (lines are down the block), but because they are just super duper nice ladies.

Thursday night, Kristi had a show at Café des Amis for the Bayou Teche clean-up benefit. Was able to see a few great people, and enjoy some turtle soup with sherry and crawfish cornbread topped with crawfish étouffée. YUM! The show was great, the food was incredible, and it was nice to visit with more good friends. And, Matt, you need to find me on Facebook since apparently you're incognito. ooooooh.

Friday marked the beginning of Blackpot, but not before grabbing some boudin and cracklins at Early's in Scott, LA. Sooooo good, and definitely missed. Robert who came down from Seattle to check out the festival was also impressed. I must learn to make it at home. I could live anywhere in world, but I gotsta have me some boudin every once in a while. What is it? A mix of rice, meat parts, and spices in a casing. Like the best sausage you'll EVER eat. Don't take my word for it though. Jump on dat plane & getchoo sum!

Blackpot was sensational. SO MANY incredibly beautiful friends, TONS of dancing, a winning cast iron cook-off, and talented kick-ass musicians. Plus, this year it was held on Halloween, which brought out some pretty incredible costumes. It ended on Sunday with a trip out to the Whirlybird with more good peeps, dancing and a swig of whiskey or two for good measure. Gooooood times.

The rest of my stay was spent with Nana, my grandmother. I just can't figure out how she makes those biscuits so darn delicious. And her fig preserves??? Oh my goodness. Not to mention the stuffed bell peppers and shrimp & okra gumbo. Man oh man. Grandmothers sure are swell!

Guess it was time for me to leave the 78-degree sunny days of Louisiana and head back up to the grey, rainy PacNW days where due to the time change, it apparently gets dark at 5pm. Kinda gross. But we will make it through the year to know the best days that summer has to offer. At least it's a good excuse to stay indoors, make big pots of gumbo, invite friends over, and pass a good time! Bon appétit!

Tavern Law - Capitol Hill

This past Saturday, after Stumptown's informative Producers Panel,  thanks to the awesome Seattle uber-foodie networker Traca Savadogo's recommendation, I headed over to Tavern Law where I met up with my friend Angel. Before he arrived, I had a grand talk with Miles the bartender. I must have still been on my questions kick after the panel, as I drilled him quite a bit – what was the story behind Tavern Law, what was Rye, what was Amaro, why they served neither Tito's Vodka nor Hudson Baby Bourbon – and then preceded to move on to one of the servers about the personality of Seattle folks. I was on a roll.

First of all, the answers:

Tavern Law is the second restaurant/bar of Belltown's Spur Gastropub's creators Brian McCracken and Dana Tough. Delicately hidden on Capitol Hill's 12th Street, it hints at speakeasy style offering nicely designed, and yummy, bites alongside classic cocktails (with a menu also listing the dates when they were created) and entertaining mixes. With an intimate downstairs dining area, it hosts an even cozier 'secret' upstairs where the guest tells the bartender what they like, and the latter then comes up with a drink hoping to delight the guest's palate. Cool. Check out Gourmet's write-up.

Rye = Ok, this was a hard one as I was a bit iffy on the whole rye, whiskey, bourbon thing. So, rye whiskey is a type of whiskey, just as other whiskeys may be made from wheat, corn, or other grains. According to Wkipedia, American rye whiskey must be distilled from at least 51% rye, while a Canadian rye whiskey may or may not include rye at all. Odd. Rye whiskey also tends to be a bit peppery. Good to know.

Amaro = An Italian herbal liqueur. Sweet, herby and yummy enough to give you a nasty headache the next day. Will have to ask my naturopath about this one. Hmmm...

Why don't they serve Tito's Vodka or Baby Bourbon? Call in and ask Bar Manager David Nelson. He's in charge. And apparently Washington State has weird liquor laws. Go figure.

Seattle personalities... still conducting research.

After my incessant questioning, Angel arrived and we decided on some nibblies to go with our pricey, but delicious, libations

Foie Gras Terrine - A super creamy terrine of foie gras purée with angostura bitters gêlée, served with warm toast ($15 - Tastes like buttah.)

Pork Belly - Stacked pork belly atop cranberry beans, autumn plums and mustard ($14 - Who started the pork belly trend? Bless them.)

Truffle Risotto - Risotto mixed with celery, shaved Parmesan, olive oil, and approximately one entire bottle of earthy and exquisite truffle oil ($14 - Did I mention this was earthy and exquisite?)

Cod Fritters - Crispy fried boules of cod in a remoulade sauce with lemon and chervil ($9 - Decent, but a bit tangy. I believe Angel compared them to something he ate in a mediocre tapas bar in Spain. Still sounds kinda good though. I like Spain.)

I must say that I'm enjoying this "Speakeasy" craze. Yes, it's a trend. Yes, they're often overpriced. No, they aren't really speakeasies. But I'm quite fond of the cocktails, the attire, and the dark & swanky mood lighting. Angel and I went to Knee High Stocking Co. a few weeks ago, and while I was impressed with the fun factor of ringing a doorbell to be allowed in, I was disappointed by the less-than-VIP crowd and the décor. Sipping my cocktail, I found do-over ways to offer Knee High the most efficient marketing punch. I am so not a fan of their wall color choice. (Maggie Savarino of Seattle Weekly agrees). The place smelled kinda funny too. I might also clean up their 'eclectic' menu. Though I'm not saying I wouldn't go back. Everything deserves a second taste. And I may just be acting a bit snooty about it. But, really?

I look forward to checking out more Seattle eatery-drinkeries. Until then, bon appétit!

Stumptown Coffee Roasters Producers Panel

   

You stumble out of bed. Stumble into the shower. Pull on you're clothes already set out the night before. Grab your keys, check your hair one last time before heading out the door, and slip into your Honda Accord. First stop before work? The neighborhood coffee shop. What was once believed a treat, has advanced as a necessity. You can not function without your morning cup of coffee, and anyone who gets in your way before then will pay dearly. Have you ever stopped to think what's in that coffee you're drinking? I know you've hoped what's NOT in there. Think back, were you rude to the barista? But what steps do go into that $3.50 exchange?

I don't have a car, and I currently don't have a full-time job. But I do double-check my hair before I leave the apt., and I do need my morning cup of coffee. This weekend, I found out a few things that go into the $3.50, thanks to the Stumptown Coffee Roasters Producers Panel.

Joined by others in the audience including writers, café owners, random curious coffee drinkers, and farmers, I was excited to listen to what producers and exporters from three different coffee areas had to say. From Columbia came Giovany Liscano, Walter Penna and Alejandro Cadena; from Costa Rica came Juan Ramon Alvarado and Francisco Mena; and from Kenya came Ngatia Kanyoge and Kamau Kuria. Aida Batlle from El Salvador fell ill and could not make it. The panel was moderated by Aleco Chigounis, Stumptown Coffee Roasters green coffee buyer.

Stumptown doesn't claim to speak for any other roaster, but what I've read, seen and heard, they FULLY believe in Direct Trade. "Stumptown guarantees premiums paid out at the farm level for coffees with the Direct Trade logo on the bag... It's about great coffee here at Stumptown, but it's also about forming and nurturing relationships with coffee farmers in the producing world that have become our friends... It's about a transparent, sustainable supply chain backed by the smiling producers to prove it." I feel lucky to live in a city where I can meet these guys and learn more about just what they do.

At 3:30pm, I sat down in Wyckoff Auditorium of Seattle University's Bannan Center for Science & Engineering to learn firsthand from the farmers/producers their side of the story. Each with their own viewpoint, personality, and process, they all shared a passion and a hunger for coffee beans and their business.

As they shared with us their craft and wisdom, the talk focused on several main points: sustainability, cost of production, weather patterns, and processing. Seeds are selected to plant, 2 to 2.5 years after planting, the trees are harvested. The berries are de-pulped. After 14-16 hours, they sit in tanks to remove mucilage. When ready they are completely washed, then placed in drying beds. For the pre-dry, the excess water is released for 24 hours, then they are again slow-dried to retain quality for no longer than 20 days. Once dried, the coffee is stored for one or two weeks so as not to be contaminated by other agents. It is then taken to the analyzation process. Once chosen, it is shipped to store in warehouses to let settle. The process varies by country depending on climate, and what each farmer/producer deems necessary to retain the best possible coffee.

What's changed since the coffee industry's price fall of 2000, is the upswing of micro mills or lots. Welcome to the microroaster revolution! Whereas Fair Trade "only guarantees a price to a cooperative board," Stumptown guarantees that their Direct Trade price offering (2X today's New York coffee market price level), well above the Fair Trade minimum, goes directly to the farmer. Stumptown bases its coffee choices on a scale of 100, only accepting those with a minimum score of 86. (olfactory, sweetness, cleanliness, flavor, acidity, body, balance, and aftertaste) Premium incentives are achieved as the score goes up.

While I won't delve precisely into what each producer had to say, I will say that they were each beautifully informative. With Costa Rica praising the community and process of all farmers and producers working together to achieve the best and most cohesive result, to the entertaining enthusiasm for farming apparent through Kenya's Ngatia Kanyoge, to Columbia's Walter Penna's poetic ascent of where he is today, learning to appreciate trees, communicating with them as they greet each other, exchanging love and in turn receiving great cherries.  FYI,it was his and Giovany Liscano's first trip on a plane.

Not only is your daily buzz achieved with each morning sip, but families are taken care of, lives are changed and improved, and the economy is allowed to flourish even during these difficult times. One question that wasn't asked directly, but may have pretty much been answered is "How dependent are they on their morning cup of coffee?" Bon appétit!

To order your own beans and try home roasting, check out Sweet Maria's. And to learn more about Stumptown's practices and farmers, check out their site as well as some of their videos.

Wine-Making & Past Events

Chillier weather means cozy evenings at home with a nice meal and a full-bodied glass of red. Or if I do venture outside, I prefer sharing small plates with friends as well as a bottle or two of a soul-embracing Cab. If it isn't tea, coffee, or a hot toddy, then it's a nice red. There's just something about sipping it slowly and letting it gently hug you until you feel all snuggled in.

This weekend, my friend Kirsten invited me to tag along to her friend Bill's house to partake in the wine-producing process. Just the night before I was begging another friend to let me come along for their next bottling stage. I've always been fascinated by the process, but have never made the move to get my hands dirty. This would be my first.

When we arrived, Bill had a basket (aka baby tub) of grapes set on the table in the living room ready for us to de-stem. After taking a gander at his crushing/cellar and fermenting rooms, we sat down in front of the TV with cheese, crackers and a glass each of his 2006 homemade vino ready to begin. Careful not to allow any leaves or stems in the grape bucket, we pulled the grapes off each bunch. When those were done, Bill brought them down to the crushing room where he poured them into a manual machine. After the juice is allowed to sit for a few days, he then adds yeast to the container and allows it to ferment for several days (initiating a fruit fly fiesta), making sure to mash and turn the grapes for balanced fermentation two or three times a day. Once the juice is ready, he strains it, barrels it, and waits for about a year & a half to bottle it. I'm not sure how our wine will come out, but the 2006 & 2007 we tasted were already quite delicious and could still have been saved for another 4 or so years.

   

I didn't write about it before since friends were visiting, other work projects took priority, and because time always seems to pass by so quickly. But here are a few pics from the St. Demetrios Greek Festival, the Sustainable Ballard Festival, and Coffee Fest during the past few weeks. Oh, and one super cute photo from the Ballard Market. Bon appétit!